Stitch Lengths Explained
Many new and more experienced sewers will stick to the stitch length they have always used to create garments. Without research and information choosing a stitch length might not even be considered; you simply get started with the stitch length that the machine is programmed with already. This approach works for basic garments and beginners, but if you’re interested in learning more about stitch length and how you can alter the length of the stitch to improve your sewing, this article can help.
Stitch length is fairly simple to explain; if you’re used to sewing, you will most likely understand that it is the length of a single stitch. On most sewing machines, the stitch length is shown on a dial or digital screen; the number represents the length of the stitch in millimetres. If you make the stitch length longer, you will have fewer stitches on the same size piece of fabric. Altering the stitch length to make it smaller means there will be more stitches on the same-sized piece of fabric.
Basting stitch
If you want to secure two pieces of fabric temporarily, you should use a basting stitch. This stitch is a long stitch that can be easily removed when the final stitch is sewn. For basting stitches, you should choose a length of 5mm to 7mm; this will keep the fabric together but make it much easier to remove when needed.
Sheer fabric
Lightweight and sheer fabric can easily pull when using a sewing machine; this can ruin the look of many items of clothing. To prevent this, dressmakers should choose a smaller stitch length when working with sheer fabrics. A length of 1.5mm to 2mm is a good selection for thin and lightweight materials.
Sewing fabric curves
Short stitches are recommended when you need to sew a curve in a piece of fabric or outfit. The small stitches look much smoother when used on curves compared to long stitches. Long stitches can make the final piece look more angled and less smooth.
A thick and thin thread
The length of the stitch you use will also depend on the type of thread you’re using to join the two pieces of material together. A thick thread needs a longer stitch; the thickness of the thread keeps the material tightly together even when the stitches are further apart. Using a thick thread for short stitches can also be more challenging as the sewing machine needs to work very hard, and the material can get caught and bunched together. When working with a thinner thread, you should choose a smaller thread length to ensure the material stays together.
Using a pattern
Suppose you’re making a garment by following a sewing pattern; the pattern should tell you the recommended stitch length. Make sure to pay attention to this, especially when working with dress and skirt patterns; the material you use could alter the stitch length. Using a long stitch length on a piece of sheer fabric for a skirt or dress could completely ruin the material. You might choose to make a mock-up of your clothing item using a different, cheaper fabric before you use the fabric you’ve chosen for the garment. If this is the case, you can speed things up using a longer stitch length. This will also allow you to easily remove the stitches and make adjustments to the mock-up until you get the sizing right.
Experiment with stitch lengths
Experimenting with different stitch lengths on fabric off-cuts is an excellent way to learn more about sewing. This way, you can figure out the best stitch length for the fabric you’re working with to make your garment. Once you become more familiar with different stitch lengths, you will automatically know the length of stitch you should choose for each of your sewing projects.
For a beginner, sticking to the standard stitch length for most garments is a good approach. Once you become more advanced, you can experiment with other lengths. One thing to remember for beginner sewers is that a shorter stitch length is much harder to remove than a longer length. If you’re unsure, stick to the standard length or go longer to make it easier to remove the stitches and try again.
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