Damp Proofing

Damp Meter

Correct Membrane

The damp proof membrane marketplace is increasing in choice everyday. Which product would you elect to have the required result "no further Damp"? Well first you need at assess whether you're just dealing with damp or if perhaps indeed you might be dealing with the prospect of water entering the property. The rule of thumb listed here is take a look outside of the property to evaluate if you have high ground levels. This can be really earth that is banked up directly against your wall which would allow water to go through it and go into the property. Should you choose indeed have this then it is better practise to dig it from the wall thus getting rid regarding the threat of water. Some properties have only slightly high ground levels. You may possibly simply need to make a call about this but remember that it can be a risk in the event that levels are not lowered.

Now that your ground levels are less than your internal floors, let us have a look at other types of moisture ingress which may be affecting the home just before choosing your damp proof membrane. Listed here is a list of external sources that have to be examined.

• Leaking Gutters

Are your gutters overflowing and allowing water a direct route down your walls, causing staining? If so then clean them out! The moisture who has run down the walls may manifest in salting or staining internally. This will be ok, you can cope with by using a damp proof membrane.

• Damaged Roof Tiles or Lead Flashings

This moisture source at high level is comparable to the leaking gutter and may manifest internally at advanced level. You are able to deal with this with the correct damp proof membrane.

• Abutting Walls and Retaining Walls

Moisture can move laterally into structures through abutting walls so this needs to be examined and isolated with a damp proof membrane if at all possible.

• Blocked Drains

Look also for blocked drains and obvious sources of poor drainage close to the property which may cause dampness to visit internally. This is very important whenever choosing the correct damp proof membrane option.

With external sources noted we are able to now glance at the best damp proof membrane for the job.

All properties built in the last 50 years, at the very least within the UK, needs to have a physical barrier inserted to the brick/block just work at 150mm above external ground levels. These are commonly referred to as a damp proof course (dpc). This form of damp proof membrane inserted into the mortar course is an efficient barrier to cope with dampness from the ground moving up through capillary action to manifest internally inside your property. So first it is very important to determine whether you have one.

It may possibly not be a physical barrier since there are also chemical damp proof membranes that are used on properties that have beenn't designed with a physical dpc or have now been retrofitted to your structure if the initial was defective. Proof of this is present in small holes which have been drilled into the mortar course and later filled in, 150mm above walk out. This might have now been done to cope with damp. These kinds of damp proof membranes are now utilising better technology from that used 20 years previously. Be aware these kind of products will still need skilled application and certainly will require re-rendering up to 1m internally with a salt retardant additive. The rendering process will require time and would be introducing wet trades and that means you will likely to be not able to redecorate quickly - maybe as much as 6 weeks afterward. It is essential to see that if your home doesn't have a uniform mortar course compared to the application of a chemical damp proof membrane will likely to be very difficult. Be wary if someone offers you this damp proof membrane option.

Paint applied damp proof membranes are also a choice. This is simply not simply a matter of slapping a bit of black bitumen paint on the wall and hoping for the very best. There are lots of "miracle" cure, paint-on options. Surprisingly enough these can actually cause more problems than are there at the beginning. Preparation could be the absolute key when applying this type of product and will be the difference in it working, not working or making it worse. So be very clear to obtain this right and comprehend the amount of time needed to have the prep right. The most typical problem with this type of application is the product. If it does deal with damp, it can form a barrier and either move damp to where you haven't treated or push damp higher up the wall. The products also will never be very sympathetic to listed buildings and you may never be able to ever have them off!

Have a look at cavity membrane systems along with a damp proof membrane solution. These items are dimpled sheets and that can be applied mechanically with special fixings internally or externally (stopping penetrating damp through poor pointing) and applying either an immediate plaster into the mesh from the membrane or dot and dab plasterboard about the product. The latter is quite popular now as once the damp proof membrane is put on the wall you won't be looking forward to drying out times and you may fix the membrane over stable existing plasterwork. There are choices with your types of damp proof membranes from 3mm to 8mm in depth and generally are made of hdpp or hdpe. The choices you can find varied in order to marry these up with exiting plasterwork or you as if you can run them up the walls. These could also add thermal qualities to your wall. The atmosphere gap created behind allows when it comes to walls to breath or dry out and forms a physical barrier so internal finishes are not contaminated with damp.
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Damp Proof: Guide

Perhaps you have pointed out that paint is blistering from the walls? A damp patch has appeared beneath the window sill? You have got tried to paint it again and again but it just keeps flaking off the walls? Perhaps you have had chose to bite the bullet and call in a damp proof expert to provide you with advice? That's a good idea but better to know if the damp proof expert is providing you just the right advice. It could be a time consuming and expensive mistake if you do not learn how to damp proof the theory is that.

We are now going to have a fast glance at simple tips to damp proof, things to seek out, the damp proof products available and just how these damp proof products and systems can solve your damp problems.

Therefore we first need to identify the damp regions of your job and what is causing them. Now this could be tricky but we can eliminate some obvious damp proofing elements before we pay for someone to come and and consult us.

Damp walls at high level or perhaps in an isolated area? May be the damp area manifesting internally at a high level? Check outside for condensation overflow or toilet overflow pipes dripping down the brickwork. The constant source of water against your brick work can be drawn into your internal finishes and manifest like a damp patch or salts coming through. This will be obvious so stop it immediately and then once it has been achieved then it will you should be a matter of re-decorating your damp wall. Another culprit this is actually the leaking gutter or down pipe, same again stop the external supply of damp along with your problem is likely to be rectified. Damp walls can certainly be a challenge and water ingress to your property can be through structural defects. This might be more difficult to determine so let me reveal are a few what to glance at: Chimney flashing or any other lead flashings under windows, cracks in the walls - may require structural repair - consult engineer, defective pointing- might be a major problem - need expert advice, loose tiles - obviously a instant source of dampness in structure needs, bridging of a cavity wall with rubble

All of the above except the cavity wall bridging could possibly be visually checked as a way to obtain damp problems. However it will probably be worth to make sure getting a chartered surveyor to provide you with the full report.

Another problem which you might encounter is condensation mould cause by lack of ventilation into the property. Usually found behind cupboards or perhaps in the corners, condensation problems look like black spots and that can easily be mistaken for rising damp. Once again ventilation is a job for an expert and modern properties which are governed to be much more air tight do suffer because of this. A qualified surveyor should certainly point you within the right direct here just like the structural defects.

The biggest problem in the damp proof diagnosis is high ground levels over the top of your existing damp proof course or lack of a damp proof course in the first instance. If you do have high external ground levels then you must lower them otherwise you could possibly be coping with a lot more than damp walls, you can in a worst case scenario have water entering your property. If you fail to remove the ground then you will have to use a waterproofing technique like you would in a basement.

Now we have been getting an idea of in which the damp may be coming from lets have a look at "how to damp proof" using the knowledge we have just attained.

What's the damp proof course? How do I cope with my property if it isn't working or does not have one?

Within the "how to damp proof" guide this is the first point which will be established. Have you got a damp proof course and what you should do if you don't. The damp proof course or dpc is a physical barrier either slate in old properties or perhaps in newer properties it is a hdpp or hdpe membrane about 150mm thick and situated above internal floor levels inserted into the mortar course 150mm above external ground level. This dpc is vital section of construction and stops rising damp (dampness tracking up from the ground) and manifesting itself as dampness internally in your structure.

In the event the dpc isn't working or perhaps is not existent you will have to re-instate it or install a cavity drain membrane to cope with the dampness internally. To reinstate the dpc you may either physically cut it to the mortar course and replace with slate packing (an experts job their a few aided by the skills to execute this task) or most commonly insert a chemical dpc. The insertion of a dpc could be the job of a damp proof specialist. The insertion is accomplished by drilling holes externally usually about 20cm apart into the depth adequate for the wall and inject either a damp proof liquid or cream to make a barrier preventing the movement of dampness. Technology has moved forward using the advent of dpc creams which tend to be a much better bet than other liquids but beware they are not fool proof and still should always be installed by someone aided by the adequate training. The insertion of creams or liquids could be messy and time consuming as it involves "hacking off" damp plaster to a height usually 1.2 m prior to injection then re-plastering with a salt retardant additive when you look at the mix to prevent the salts coming through afterwards. The actual problem is here the wet trades and blow drying times involved before you can go and redecorate. Ask the contractor doing the damp proof work what type of guarantee they are going to provide you with in addition to different schemes do vary.

Next option on how best to damp proof is by using a cavity drain membrane. These membranes are dimpled sheets that may receive a primary plaster finish or plasterboard finish. This particular damp proofing is a physical barrier mechanically fixed internally and the air gap allows the wall to "breathe" thus all of the dampness may come out without staining or guess work that the cream alternative offers. So it acts as a barrier for the outer lining area covered not merely a line over the mortar joints. This damp proofing material may also be used externally to prevent driving or penetrating rain/moisture coming through porous brickwork, defective mortar courses. The cavity drain membranes in the marketplace vary in thickness of dimples from 3mm to 8mm. These items will take care of all bases with regards to not allowing the dampness to effect internal finishes and can be employed with minimal surface prep and little to none blow drying times. You are going to however have to identify the source of damp walls (like defective gutters) for the sake of the home as a whole.

And so I hope you've got now enough information to disappear completely with and understand the first steps of "how to damp proof". You have got many weapons for your use it is a matter to getting the proper advice and also the right contractor to work with you in picking the most wonderful choice for you.
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Damp Proof Course

What exactly is a damp proof course and why do i want one?

A damp proof course or dpc is a vital area of the construction process for the reason that its function is to prevent rising dampness.

Rising dampness is caused by dampness when you look at the ground being drawn up through the capillary channels in every given building fabric.

Generally a dpc should be installed if the building is constructed. In new buildings the damp proof course is physical membrane. This is laid into a mortar course at the foot of the walls. In older buildings it is common for slate or bitumen to be used because the damp proof course plus some older buildings won't have a damp proof course after all.

As said, most of the above provide a physical barrier against rising dampness but why is this necessary? In a nutshell it prevents spoiling associated with the internal wall finishes. When a wall is suffering from rising dampness the associated affects to the internal finishes is staining, salting and peeling paint or paper, blown plaster, rotten skirting boards etc.

A damp proof course is designed to stop the dampness at low level before it has an opportunity to do any damage higher up the wall.

Some times an older dpc will fail. If it does or if there isn't you can be installed as a remedial or retrofit measure. Typically one of the following methods will be used:

• Chemical damp proof course

This calls for drilling a number of holes 150mm over the external walk out over the foot of the walls and injecting a silicone fluid or cream. The concept is that the silicone content within these products is designed to repel moisture rising up the wall.

My opinion is the fact that this technique is only a little hit and miss in that the density and quality of this wall will have a huge baring on whether it are going to be affective as will the program method in terms of drilling hole to the correct diameter and depth and level of chemical installed that is often very difficult to gauge. For this reason you certainly will often fins a chemical damp proof course is preferred combined with the elimination of internal plaster and re-plastering with a waterproofing additive. The idea is if a person doesn't work hopefully one other will.

• Physical Damp proof course installation

Believe it or otherwise not can be done to retro fit a physical damp proof course. Mortar joints along the walls are cut fully out with a power joint saw and a brand new physical damp proof course is inserted in sections. The wall will be made good around it.

My opinion is the fact that long term effectiveness should be very good however it will be expensive and externally disruptive because someone is literally cutting through the walls of your house. Imagine the dust!!

• Electro osmosis damp proof course

A titanium wire is passed across the walls to be treated as well as regular intervals this wire is pushed into holes produced in the brickwork, then it is earthed and a secure voltage is applied, this stops the dampness from rising within the masonry.

A pretty unusual method which has opinions divided as to its effectiveness. In my experience has not really been proved to be a highly effective damp proof course and thus is quite rarely seen or used these days.

• Cavity membranes

Not a damp proof course as such but more a substitute for one. These systems are becoming a lot more popular as a fruitful answer to rising dampness in buildings.

Cavity membranes are high density polypropylene and polyethylene plastic membranes. The rolls of plastic are moulded into a stud formation to provide and "egg box" type appearance as well as damp proofing purposes they usually have a mesh welded to the surface to supply a base to plaster or dab fix plasterboard onto.

They are referred to as cavity membranes considering that the stud profile creates an air gap between your membrane additionally the wall to which it is applied. Once applied to the wall (usually as much as at the least 1m) The membrane allows any moisture within the wall to evaporate in to the air gap but because it is liberated to move unhindered it is not pushed to adjacent areas or more within the wall while the membrane unlike any damp proof course will give you an impermeable separation barrier between your damp wall therefore the new wall finished which can be permanently affective against damp, salts, staining etc. The membranes are attached using special sealed mushroom fixings and despite some concerns the membranes can be easily fixed through retrospectively if required. Plastered finish and dab fixed plasterboard and skim provide the rooms usual aesthetic appearance aided by the peace of mind that the membrane will prolong their longevity. In my opinion this is a good and value effective approach to treatment and that can be utilized in conjunction with or instead of some of the above.
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